Monday, September 3, 2012

Only a surfer knows the feeling ...

That nervous excitement as you drive to the surf spot, talking the whole way about what to expect from the swell.

That chill as you slip on your wetsuit.

That first burst of icy cold atlantic water filling up your suit and making your fingers, nose and toes burn.

The pure stoke of catching a wave.

Duckdiving and getting serious brain freeze.

The burn in your limbs from paddling like mad to catch a wave.

Sitting on your board chatting with your friends waiting for the next set.

The view of the beach and the mountains from the backline.

Paddling back to the beach and getting that warm feeling once you've dried yourself off and put your clothes back on.

Driving away, feeling complete, like your day was washed clean by the water, your mind is clear and happiness fills your heart.

Reliving the surf all the way home with your mates and planning the next mission.

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